Having once visited my friend, I was shocked by the beauty of white inflorescences on one of the plants. They were like an exquisite toy made by a skilled jeweler - a wax shine and the absolute symmetry of the petals. "This is hoya!" - I was amazed. But before she did not pay much attention to her, because she had never seen her flowers. Of course, soon this tropical liana appeared in my collection. But while growing hoya, I ran into a problem. Some leaves first changed color, and then began to fall off. I found the reason. Why hoya drops leaves, I will tell in this article.Why does hoya dump leaves?
Types of Hoya
Having received a new young plant as a gift from my girlfriend, I began to look for what kind of plant it belongs to. The seen inflorescences helped to decide. It turned out that the most common meaty hoya (Hoya carnosa) I was glad that she is unpretentious and requires very little attention.
She hails from the tropics of Sri Lanka, Asia, Polynesia, and the Philippines. It belongs to succulents, it is able to accumulate moisture, in nature it develops, relying on the trunks of larger plants or trees. Not parasitic, but just looking for support.
Of the many naturally occurring species of hoya, only a few have taken root as house plants. It:
- Hoya is beautiful (Hoya bella) - a very decorative dwarf species of hoya;
- Hoya multi-flowered (Hoya multiflora) - has up to 40 flowers in each inflorescence and lemon aroma;
- Majestic hoya (Hoya imperialis) - pink-red flowers are collected in hanging umbrellas;
- Hoya Kerra (Hoya kerrii) - like the meaty hoya, a very popular species, it differs in large leaves in the shape of an inverted heart.
For a detailed description of the types of Hoya, read the article Hoya - soaring spheres of wax ivy.
The conditions for caring for all indoor types of hoya are almost the same. Therefore, my advice will come in handy also for gardeners who grow not fleshy, but other types of hoya.Meaty hoya (Hoya carnosa).
Hoya conditions and care
In nature, the hoya climbs high, clinging to the trunks and branches of trees. During tropical showers, he tries to store life-giving moisture for the future and almost never sees bright sunlight. It is clear that the hoya will require similar conditions from the owners who grow it in the apartment.
The plant is thermophilic, it is comfortable at temperatures of +18 ... +27 degrees all year round. But nevertheless, the hoya reaches its greatest decorativeness not in the heat, but in the cool - about + 20 ° С.
Bases of problems, the flower will live for several days at + 15 ° C, but a longer stay in such a room or further cooling disrupts the work of the roots and can lead to the death of the plant.
Being in the direct sun, the liana gets powerful burns, but at the same time it needs good lighting. Placing on a southwestern or southeastern window with light shading or on the western and eastern windows without installing protective screens is the best solution for the hoya.
She needs to choose a place of residence immediately and for a long time. She really does not like moving, especially during the period of budding and flowering. If you disturb her at this time, she will probably begin to drop leaves, buds and flowers.
Watering and humidification
In organizing irrigation for hoya, it is necessary to take into account 2 points: the liana does not tolerate waterlogging and in winter it has a rest period. By October, after flowering is over, watering is gradually reduced, leading to rare moisture when the earthen coma dries up almost completely. From the beginning of March, they begin to increase the frequency and volume of irrigation. But still, watering for the hoya should be moderate, and only after the top layer of the substrate has dried.
I noticed that the periods of artificial drought with a delay of hydration of 2-3 days are even useful for the hoye. But not during the formation of the buds. I do not adhere to a strict watering schedule, I check the condition of the soil. If it has dried out on the length of the phalanx of the finger, then the time has come for watering. Water must not be allowed to accumulate in the sump; the roots of the plant begin to rot from its stagnation. I clean the excess with a regular sponge.
This liana really appreciates rubbing leaves or a warm shower. Mandatory moment - the pot at this time must be closed from water. I pull it on top with cling film or after a shower, gently tilt it, pouring the excess. After this procedure, the flower does not water for about a week.Hoya Kerrii
In the case of hoya, do not get involved in complex fertilizers. In winter, they are not needed at all; during the flowering period, I water my Kemira creeper once a month. Dosage in liquid form - half a measuring cap in 2 liters of water, or 0.5 teaspoons of granules in a three-liter jar. I immediately pour the excess, the solution is suitable for use only during the day.
I heard that these creepers perceive the Agrecol orchid mineral gel well. I haven’t tried it myself, my handsome man is still blooming, not before experimenting. About once every 2 months I pour water from the aquarium. That's all the feeding. The fleshy hoya really does not like oversaturation, dropping buds and leaves.
A very crucial moment. It is carried out with a frequency of once every 2-3 years, as the soil is depleted and the root system grows. It was just my mistake, for which the plant paid with the loss of half of the leaves. It turns out that after a transplant, the vine should not be watered for about a week. And I also chose a pot too large. And succulents do not tolerate when there is no support to the roots.
It’s good that my flower turned out to be tenacious, and my friend suggested the cause of the malaise. I didn’t start replanting again, but I set up my hoya “drought period” and sprayed Epin once every 14 days. It belongs to natural biostimulants, increases endurance and resistance to external factors, the plant becomes stronger, regeneration accelerates. One ampoule is enough for 5 liters of water, the solution is only suitable for 48 hours.
When choosing a substrate for planting, you need to take into account that the roots need air, so a drainage layer of fine expanded clay is required. For hoya, I made the soil myself, mixing peat, humus, sand and garden soil at the rate of 1: 1: 1: 2 and added a handful of chopped tree bark. In the proposed mixture, the liana took root well. Next time I’ll try a substrate for palm trees or orchids.Beautiful Hoya (Hoya bella). Hoya multiflora (Hoya multiflora). Majestic Hoya (Hoya imperialis).
Why does hoya dump leaves?
After observing the hoya, I realized that it reacts by dumping green mass to many factors:
- frequent change of residence;
- chronic waterlogging;
- lack of light;
- soil depletion;
- the onset of a period of rest;
- rotting of the roots;
- too spacious pot;
- improperly selected soil;
- the appearance of pests.
By the way, the plant can warn of many problems. For example, thin leaves indicate the need for watering. If they are dense and fleshy, wide across, then the plant has made a sufficient supply of moisture and watering can be postponed.
Yellowed and deformed young leaves and shoots inform about the appearance of pests. Decaying of the roots is clearly indicated by falling leaves, the appearance of a grayish plaque on the base of the stem near the ground itself.
Finding out the cause, it is quite simple to eliminate and keep the plant healthy. My hoya bloomed in the fourth year. A wonderful honey smell swam from the opened flowers, and transparent droplets of moisture sparkled on the edges of some petals. I was again subdued by the restrained beauty of the plant.
Only now have to air the room more often. Because of the rich aroma, I moved the pot from the bedroom to the hall. Fortunately, the rooms are on one, southeast side, so the move remained unnoticed by the plant.
Now my meaty hoya is healthy and full of strength, all the leaves are in place and are not going to fall off, which I sincerely wish for your vines.